1Basilica di San Simplicio Culture
Olbia's Romanesque granite church, the town's oldest and quietest corner, worth the 20 minutes before the crowds arrive.
Three days is enough to do the Costa Smeralda properly if you resist the urge to see every cove: one day for Olbia's low-key old town and a first golden-hour look at Porto Cervo, one full beach day swimming Liscia Ruja and Capriccioli, and a gentler last morning at Spiaggia del Principe, the beach many locals rate above all the others. This plan keeps Olbia as your base, with a rental car for the coast and every dinner already chosen.
Olbia's Romanesque granite church, the town's oldest and quietest corner, worth the 20 minutes before the crowds arrive.
Olbia's pedestrian spine, pastel facades, small artisan shops, and the pace of a town most tourists skip through too fast.
A long-standing Olbia seafood room, good for your one sit-down meal today before the drive north.
The Costa Smeralda's famous little harbor square, walk the marina and see the yachts that give the coast its name.
A quiet clifftop pullout just north of Porto Cervo where the granite coastline turns gold in the late light.
Back in Olbia for a relaxed dinner of Gallura classics after the coastal drive.
One of the Costa Smeralda's finest sweeps of white sand and turquoise water, arrive early for calm water and easy parking.
A short drive south to a granite-boulder cove with clearer, shallower water, bring goggles for the rocks at the northern end.
A proper sit-down seafood lunch back near the marina, Gallura specialties done well.
The single prettiest stretch of the SP59, pull off at the Cala di Volpe overlook for the postcard bay view.
Golden-hour aperitivo spot above Pevero Golf, the classic Costa Smeralda sunset locals actually go out of their way for.
Casual, well-loved pizzeria in Olbia to close a big beach day without another heavy sit-down.
Named for the Aga Khan's fondness for it, arrive by mid-morning before the small beach fills, best swim of the trip.
A short unmarked footpath along the rocks linking Principe's cove to a quieter neighboring inlet, bring water shoes.
Easy, well-regarded lunch back near Olbia before the last stretch of the trip.
A gentle final walk along the Olbia harbor promenade, the low-key ritual locals do every evening.
Sardinia's pleated pasta parcels filled with potato, pecorino and mint; the island's signature primo and a Gallura menu staple.
Bottarga, grilled catch and the local white wine grown on these granite hills; the Costa Smeralda's one true pairing.
Slow-roasted suckling pig, the great inland Sardinian feast dish. This coastal plan does not cover it; ask Robin to swap in an agriturismo dinner and it will.
A fried cheese-filled pastry drowned in local honey; order it wherever day 1's dinner ends.
Yes. Every beach on this plan sits 25-40 minutes north of Olbia on the SP73 and SP59, and the coastal pullouts that make the drives worthwhile only work with your own wheels. Book the rental for the whole stay; Olbia itself you walk.
The rental car, well ahead in summer, and any Costa Smeralda dinner you care about in June-August. The beaches themselves are free and unbookable; going early is the only reservation that matters.
Olbia Costa Smeralda airport is barely 10 minutes from the town center by taxi or rental car; it is one of the easiest arrivals in the Mediterranean.
For Olbia plus the classic Costa Smeralda coves, yes. What it leaves out is the water: the La Maddalena archipelago and Tavolara island each deserve a boat day, and that is exactly what a fourth or fifth day adds.
Spiaggia del Principe, day 3's morning. Arrive by mid-morning; the cove is small, the water is the clearest on this stretch, and by noon in summer it fills.
Give Liscia Ruja and Capriccioli separate mornings so neither swim is on a clock, and use the freed afternoons for the Cala di Volpe drive and a longer Porto Cervo wander.
Drive to Palau and take the ferry across; the archipelago's granite islands and the Caprera coves are the best water in this corner of Sardinia.
Boats from Porto San Paolo run out to Tavolara's limestone massif; pair it with the beaches around San Teodoro for a last swim away from the Smeralda crowds.
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