A week is enough to drive Sicily's great diagonal if you split it three ways: Palermo's Arab-Norman gold and market noise for three nights, one night under the temples at Agrigento, and two on Ortigia, the baroque island heart of Syracuse. The two drives land on mornings, the Valley of the Temples is saved for golden hour, and the Greek theatre at Neapolis gets the cool of day six's start.
Robin planned this trip forFirst visitPalermo → SyracuseCoupleRental carBalanced paceMid-SeptemberChange these assumptions →
Planned by Robin7 days · 28 stops
Expert-curated: every place is real, planned with the same verified data Robin uses in the app and curated with local experts. How these itineraries are made
6Greek theatre at Neapolis→Fonte Aretusa→the passeggiata
7A last swim→Ortigia market→farewell lunch
Best for
First-time visitors who want Greek stones, Norman gold and real street food in one loop
Car needed
Yes, from day 4. Palermo itself is a walking city; pick the car up on your way out
Where to stay
Three bases: Palermo's Kalsa, Agrigento's centro storico, Ortigia island
Total driving
About 6 hours across two travel mornings, plus short hops around Palermo
Best months
May, June, September and early October; September keeps the sea warm without August's crowds
Pace
Balanced
Robin recommends
Ask Robin for a coast stop on the day-5 drive: the Scala dei Turchi's white marl cliffs sit minutes off the route out of Agrigento, and this plan's only real beach hour is otherwise Mondello
Getting around: 1.7 km on foot (~21 min) · 1 short ride
You land into Palermo's noisy, glorious chaos, settle in, then ease into the evening with a wander through the Kalsa quarter and a relaxed dinner near your hotel.
Norman and Arab-Norman Palermo at its richest today, the golden mosaics of the Cappella Palatina in the morning, then the market roar of Ballarò before an easy baroque stroll through the Quattro Canti.
Walk the Temple of Concordia to the Temple of Juno as the honey-colored stone turns gold, the ridge path faces west.
↓3.3 km · ~18 min by taxi or transit
18:00–19:30
4Dinner in Agrigento old town Eat
A trattoria in the medieval centro storico, try Agrigento's caponata-style pasta alla Norma.
Robin's tip. The Valley of the Temples sometimes opens into the evening in the warm months, and the Temple of Concordia lit against the dark is worth staying for; check the current closing time when you buy your ticket.
Traveling on different dates, or with kids? Robin rebuilds this plan around you.
Getting around: 500 m on foot (~6 min) · 10 km of driving (~15 min)
Another travel morning, this time to Syracuse; once you're settled, let Ortigia's tangle of baroque streets and the sea breeze off the Foro Italico be your welcome.
The tangled baroque streets of Syracuse's island heart, end at the Duomo, itself built into a Greek temple's columns.
↓370 m · ~5 min walk
18:00–19:30
4Dinner, Foro Italico waterfront Eat
A relaxed harborside dinner to close a travel day, sea breeze off the Foro Italico.
Choose how you eat Ortigia
If you want every table decided before you flyask Robin to pin the plan's unnamed Ortigia lunches and dinners by craving, from sea urchin pasta to a proper Sicilian rosticceria, and it will name each one
If you trust a legendary market countermake tomorrow's lunch Caseificio Borderi at the Via Trento market, where the sandwich line is half the theater, and let tonight stay simple near the Duomo
If you like walking in coldkeep the plan loose as written; Ortigia is small enough that a handwritten menu and a full local table are honest signals, and the passeggiata will carry you past twenty of them
Day 6: The Greek theatre, the spring & the passeggiata
Getting around: 3.0 km on foot (~37 min)
Greek Sicily at its most complete: the vast Neapolis park with its theatre and the Ear of Dionysius, then a slow Ortigia evening around the Fonte Aretusa.
An unhurried last meal by the water before checkout and onward travel.
Bucket-list foods in Palermo
Pani ca meusa
Palermo's spleen sandwich is the city's rite of passage, dressed 'maritata' with caciocavallo if you are committing properly.
On this trip: Antica Focacceria San Francesco, day 2 lunch, serving it since 1834
Arancine and panelle
Fried street food eaten standing up in market noise: saffron rice spheres and chickpea fritters, best where the prices are shouted.
On this trip: Ballarò Market, day 2 mid-morning
Pasta alla Norma
Fried eggplant, tomato, basil and ricotta salata, Sicily's definitive plate of pasta.
On this trip: Agrigento's old town, day 4 dinner
Granita con brioche
The Sicilian breakfast: almond or coffee granita with a warm brioche for dunking. The plan's mornings start early for the sights, so ask Robin to build one slow granita breakfast into your Ortigia days and it will.
Where to stay for this itinerary
Stay in Palermo: the Kalsa if…
you want the first three days on foot, from the Palatina to Ballarò
peeling palazzi and evening piazza life feel like the point of Palermo
Stay in Agrigento: the centro storico if…
you want dinner in the medieval lanes after the temples
one well-placed night matters more than hotel amenities
Stay in Syracuse: Ortigia island itself if…
you want the baroque streets and the sea at your door for the final stretch
you are happy parking once on the edge of the island and walking everywhere
Before you go
Do you need a car?
Yes, but only from day 4. Palermo is best on foot with a bus or taxi up to Monreale, and city parking is misery, so collect the rental on your way out of town. On the road, watch for ZTL restricted-traffic zones in the old centers: park outside the historic cores and walk in.
What must be booked ahead?
Book the Ortigia dinners a day or two out in season, as tables fill for the passeggiata hour. The Cappella Palatina and Valley of the Temples sell tickets on site and online; what matters more than booking is timing, at opening for the chapel and late afternoon for the temples.
How do the airports work?
Fly open-jaw: into Palermo and home from Catania, which is about an hour's drive from Syracuse. Most rental companies allow the one-way within Sicily for a modest fee, and it saves you a three-hour backtrack.
What are the travel days really like?
Two honest drive mornings: about two hours Palermo to Agrigento and three from Agrigento to Syracuse. Both land you at your base by lunch, which is why the temples and Ortigia each get their best light the same evening.
Is a week enough?
For the Palermo-Agrigento-Syracuse diagonal, yes, and it is the strongest week Sicily offers a first visit. What it leaves out is the east coast's other half: Taormina, Etna and the Noto valley baroque towns deserve days of their own.
9–10 days
Have 9–10 days?
First, slow the west
Give Palermo a fourth night and spend the extra day on the Segesta temple and the cable car up to Erice, the medieval town in the clouds; both sit an easy drive west of the city.
Add the Taormina and Etna leg
After Syracuse, drive north for two nights in or below Taormina: the Greek theatre with Etna smoking behind it, and a morning on the volcano's upper slopes by cable car and 4x4.
Give the baroque valley its day
From Ortigia, loop Noto, Modica and Ragusa Ibla, the honey-stone towns rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake, with a chocolate stop in Modica on principle.
Make this itinerary yours
This trip was built for a typical first visit. You aren't typical. Find your loves, your budget, and your perfect Palermo adventure by building on this trip with Hey Robin.