1Mercado dos Lavradores Sight
Ground-floor flower and fruit stalls, fishmongers upstairs slicing espada, go before 10am to beat the tour buses.
Three days covers Madeira's essentials in one clean arc: old Funchal and the Monte cable car on day one, the island's iconic Arieiro-to-Ruivo ridge walk plus Cabo Girão's glass skywalk on day two, and the volcanic pools of Porto Moniz with a slow south-coast return to finish. It is a rental-car trip built from Funchal, and this page also maps the honest way to stretch it to five or seven days.
Ground-floor flower and fruit stalls, fishmongers upstairs slicing espada, go before 10am to beat the tour buses.
Wander the painted-door street (Arte de Portas Abertas) where dozens of shuttered doors became local artists' canvases.
The 15-minute gondola climbs 550m above the rooftops, sit on the right side for the best harbour view.
Koi ponds, azulejo panels and a jungle of ferns terraced into the hillside, the Oriental section is the quiet highlight.
Two wicker-basket 'carreiros' steer you down the old cobbled road to Livramento, a genuinely local ritual since the 1850s.
Tiny, packed fish-and-grill spot in the old town, the espada com banana is the dish to order.
Pick up pastries and sandwiches here for a trailside picnic, you'll eat looking down over the ridgeline at Pico do Arieiro.
Madeira's iconic ridge hike, 1,818m to 1,862m, through tunnels and knife-edge stairs with the cloud sea often below you by mid-morning.
Glass platform 580m above the sea, one of Europe's highest sea cliffs, the banana terraces below are the real payoff.
The colourful harbour Churchill once painted from, walk the seawall as the poça boats come in for the evening.
A well-loved Indian spot near Câmara de Lobos, a welcome change of pace after a long day on the ridge.
North-coast drive along the old ER101 corridor road, cliffs on one side, ocean on the other, go slow, it's the scenic route.
Swim in volcanic lava pools filled by the Atlantic, arrive right at opening for calmer water and fewer crowds.
Perched right over the rocks in Porto Moniz, order the limpets (lapas) while the spray hits the windows.
A short stop in this old fishing town's black-and-white cobbled square and 15th-century church on the way back.
Funchal's central garden turns gold as the sun drops behind the cathedral's Manueline tower, a fitting last look at the city.
A former salt warehouse turned wine-forward restaurant, a good last-night pick given the strong Madeira wine list.
Black scabbardfish with fried banana, Madeira's signature plate and better than it sounds by a mile.
Limpets grilled in garlic butter, eaten within sight of the sea they came from.
The warm sweet-potato flatbread that starts nearly every Madeiran meal; never turn it down.
The sugarcane-rum citrus drink and the laurel-skewered beef, both born around Câmara de Lobos. The plan walks the village but books neither; ask Robin to swap day 2's dinner for a poncha bar and espetada house and it will.
Yes, for days 2 and 3: the Arieiro trailhead, Cabo Girão and Porto Moniz are all drives with no practical bus timing. Day 1 in Funchal needs no car at all, so many visitors collect the rental on the second morning.
The rental car and a table at Armazém do Sal for your last night. The ridge walk needs no permit; it needs an early start and a weather check, which matter more.
Funchal is about 20 minutes west of the airport by the VR1 expressway; taxis and the aerobus both make the run, and rental desks sit in the terminal if you are picking the car up on arrival.
For the icons, yes, and the plan proves it. What three days cannot hold is a real levada day, the wild east-point walk at São Lourenço, or any time on the calmer east side; that is exactly what five or seven days add.
It is the island's most serious day walk: exposed staircases, tunnels you need a headtorch for, and real elevation. Fit walkers love it; if knife-edge ridges are not your thing, walk the first kilometre for the views and turn back, which is a known and honorable choice.
Split day 2: the ridge walk deserves a whole day with a slow lunch after, and Cabo Girão with Câmara de Lobos becomes a relaxed second afternoon.
Pick one classic irrigation-channel walk, the 25 Fontes and Risco waterfall route being the famous choice, and let it take the whole morning; these gentle contour paths are the island's soul.
Walk the bare volcanic point at Ponta de São Lourenço, then swim at Machico's sheltered bay on the way back; it is the opposite landscape to the laurel forest and completes the island.
Move to Porto Moniz or Seixal for one night so the pools, the black-sand beach and the north-coast cliffs stop being a day trip and become your doorstep.
The triangular thatched houses at Santana, the Caldeirão Verde levada into the green heart of the island, and the São Vicente valley fill two unhurried days.
Boats out of Funchal or Calheta run year-round for whales and dolphins; hold it for the last day so the sea state can pick your morning.
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